Sunday 31 August 2008

Walking West

Walking West

I didn't have any phone/e-mail/modern life coverage last night, so I still need to upload a couple of posts explaining how good things were in San Pedro de Rozados, which has just about the finest pilgrim hostal I've stayed in so far, run, with an amazing amount of dedication, by Nuria.

I'm now heading out to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra, and for the first time since Astorga i'm not heading directly South.
Rather, the route curves south west and in parts is directly westerly. The change in direction is somewhat disorientating. Heading due south I could tell where the sun should be at any given time in relation to me, sweeping up from my left hand side in the mornings directly over my head at 1pm to sink down into the western horizon on my right hand side by evening. Now it's all changed, and as I head due west it's up above my left shoulder and is currently burning my left cheek only. 

The countryside is also changing, there are still some fields of golden stalks, left over from the cereal harvest, but the completely flat landscape of only cereal fields is giving way to tree covered, gently rolling, hills. It's very beautiful. In the distance you can make out, shimmering, the outlines of higher mountains.  These form part of the central mountain chain of the peninsula. I should be crossing these tomorrow or the day after, at Bejar. I did some of my training walks out here in the western part of the central sierra, so i'm very much looking forward to that section.  I must confess as well that whilst the flat plains have a certain stark beauty, their monotony, under a burning Spanish sun, can become quite testing. The greenery of the hills is a welcome relief.

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