The party is over. Melide is quiet under a grey sky, sleeping off the effects of last night; the only people out are the cleaners, gathering in the mountain of empty cups, cans, bottles, cartons, and the pilgrims.

The first ones were up around 5ish, and by the time I was fully awake at 7.30 the hall of maybe 60 people had been reduced to around 10. 

In summer on the camino or pilgrim trail to Santiago there are so many people that it becomes a rush to get to the next pilgrim hostal, and people are forced to get up earlier and earlier to avoid sleeping in town halls and school gyms as we were last night.

I've now located the route heading East out of town, and as luck would have it there's an excellent cafe right where I've picked it up. After getting to my sleep mat at around 2.30 I could do with a coffee.

Post breakfast it'll be time to make tracks, but I think they're going to be somewhat slow, as a couple of my blisters are really doing well. Flourishing you could say. In principle I'm meant be heading to Portomarìn today, about 26 miles, but tomorrow was then planned as an easier day of about half that, so if I'm struggling later on I think I might reverse the days, as there are plenty of places to sleep between here and Portomarìn.

Have a good day, wherever you may be.

Fiesta in Melide

As luck would have it, this week Melide is "de fiesta", so we're not off to bed quite yet. Dancing is good for blisters, I've been told...

Day 1: Estaca de Bares with legendary Chema

A few photos from the first day, courtesy of Chema, pictured here, who played no small part in its success. Thank you for your moral support and photographic skills!

16 km to day's end, and Melide where I join the mass of pilgrims heading to Santiago. 16 km should be about 3 hours but to be honest it is such a perfect day I'd be happy to be out here for a long time yet. No doubt when the feet start really aching in a couple of kilometres I won't be saying any such thing.

The countryside I'm currently ambling through is doing a remarkable impression of the Hobbit's Shire from the Lord of the Rings. All I can see are gentle rolling hills, occasional stands of forest between well tended fields, the occasional plume of woodsmoke rising from a picturesque cottage, all bathed in a gentle afternoon sun. No sign of Gandalf, although it does feel as if there's magic in the air.

After the blackcurrants, thistles. Not as tasty, but for a Scot very heartening.

I can thoroughly recommend the blackberries as a quick snack; not only are they juicily exquisite, but they seem to be everywhere by the side of the forest track i'm now on. Lunch has been put back a good half hour. 

From the summit of Serra da Cova da Serpe (very glad the climb is over), back to Guitiriz and from where I've come. Somewhere out there is the Atlantic...

I guess borrowing him for the next month would be cheating. Tempting though.

Morning day 3

Leisurely start today, as they don't serve breakfast until 9.  What could I do? As you can see from the view from my room it's a bit cloudy but quite bright, and no rain. As yet. Right, I'm off for coffee.