We're off to investigate the restaurant and bar...

Ross Campbell has arrived, (I found him, quite at home, in a bar in Vega de Valcarcel) and not only that but he's bearing gifts in the form of an exquisite chocolate brownie, created by his flatmate's lovely friend Maria. Just what was needed to keep going for the last 3 miles, thanks!

After six days and a half in Galicia I've made it to the frontier with Leòn. I've thoroughly enjoyed my time in "land of water", although I was lucky enough to only see one day of rain. Many thanks to all the Gallegos, I'll be back here one day soon I'm sure.

Day 7

It's another glorious morning, crossing the picturesque Galician highlands, in the fresh mountain air.

Last night I stayed in beautiful Fonfria, which has a great hostal, with a slightly hippy vibe, the nicest hosts you could imagine and a fantastic dinner. Four courses and a seemingly never ending supply of wine.

Fonfria didn't have mobile coverage so there are a few things I need to put up from yesterday, but at the moment I need to make tracks because Ross Campbell, who joins the walk today for the long weekend, has landed in Spain and is en route to our meeting point as I post. I'm somewhat behind schedule as I've just spent half an hour dealing with "The return of the blisters", a painful sequel indeed. They've been given a solid popping so hopefully I'll make good progress from here on in. Given Ross's fondness for good spanish red wine I fear for his state if I leave him on his own in a bar for too long.

After a morning spent traversing the delights of the leafy San Xil valley I've arrived in Triacastela. No sign of the three castles for which it's named, rather disappointingly (and having checked the guidebook indeed it appears they are gone without trace). It's not the biggest place so i'm not sure quite why it had three in the first place. I'd say one would more than suffice, and it wouldn't be a particularly big one at that.  So, no castles but there are a plethora of bars and restaurants catering for the pilgrims. The one I've picked wouldn't come up short in the most fly infested bar stakes, but the chorizo sandwich is spot on. And when I tried to buy a bottle of water to fill my canteen (do people still use that word for water bottle? for some reason it sounds like it comes from the 40's) the owner told me I'd be better off filling it from the tap. It's the little touches.

I'd better be making tracks pretty soon as I want to press on and get the miles in today as I seem to be feeling pretty good. It is perfect walking weather which helps, and, maybe more importantly, I took the bold step of bursting two blisters last night. I won't go into the grisly details in case you're eating your lunch, but it was a fairly spectacular event. Who knew a little toe could hold that much liquid? With the pressure off walking is back to being mostly a joy, so I feel I should make the most of it. The big question, can I, should I, will I? make it to O Cebreiro by tonight, it's another 12.5 miles which should be about 3 and a half hours, but it's also a 2,200 foot climb up to there, which will add a couple of minutes I'd guess. Ah, who knows?, the hills the route climbs through look very pleasant so i'm going to head out and see where I end up. I've got everything I need on my back for a night out in the open, so I'm free to do whatever takes my fancy. And a night out under the stars in the green Galician hills doesn't sound too bad.

Se ve bien las montañas detrás del pueblo/ You can clearly see the mountains just behind the village.

The sun's burnt through the mist, and just a few wisps are still lingering on the hills.

Mist

It's a misty morning here in Sarria, and actually cold... Crossing the river on the old stone bridge I could see my breath. I should remember this, for when it's 40 degrees in Andalucia.